Lobster with Ginger and Scallions

Lobster with Ginger and Scallions

Ingredients:
2 lobsters, each about 11⁄2 pounds
(675 grams)
peanut or corn oil for deep-frying
3 tablespoons peanut or corn oil
3 ounces (85 grams) fresh ginger root,
peeled and cut into thin slices
10 to 12 large scallions, cut diagonally,
white and green parts separated
11⁄2 tablespoons Shaohsing wine or brandy
1⁄2 cup prime stock (see page 242)


For the sauce:
1 teaspoon potato flour
4 tablespoons water
1⁄2 tablespoon thin soy sauce
11⁄2 tablespoons oyster sauce
Serves 6 as a first course

Preparation:

The species of lobster found along the Chinese coast is the spiny lobster or
crayfish and, significantly, the Chinese name for it is dragon prawn. The meat,
compared to that of the true lobster, is slightly coarser, but cooking methods and
recipes are the same for both. Only fresh lobsters are fit for consumption; they
can be kept alive up to 3 days in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.
Prepare the sauce: Mix together the flour, water, soy sauce and oyster
sauce. Set aside.
Kill and chop up the lobsters. Before starting, make sure that strong rubber
bands are around the pincers. Lay the lobsters flat, one at a time, on a chopping
board, and steady them with one hand. Pierce the center of the head, where
there is a cross, with the pointed end of a strong knife, pressing firmly all the
way down in order to paralyze the nerve and hence kill the lobster instantly.
Split it in half along the back, all the way to the tail, cutting through both the
shell and the flesh. Remove and discard the pouch of grit from the head, as well
as the dark gut running along the body. Remove the tiny eggs, if any, and the
greenish creamy substance (tomalley), which can be cooked separately if you
like it. Twist the joints to dislodge the 2 claws from the body. Lay each half of
the body flat and, using a kitchen cleaver, chop each into 3 pieces. Remove the
gill from the head, close to the shell. Lay the claws on the board and bang them,
one by one, with either the broad side of the cleaver or a hammer until the shell
is cracked at various points so that it will not be necessary to use crackers when
eating them. Cut each claw in two at its obvious joint.
Put all the head and claw pieces into one large bowl and the body pieces
into another. Pat dry with paper towels.
Half fill a wok or deep fryer with oil. Heat to a temperature of 350°F (180°C),
or until a cube of stale bread browns in 60 seconds. Carefully lower all the head
and claw pieces into the oil and let them “go through the oil” for 20 to 30
seconds, so that their juices are sealed in. Remove immediately with a large hand
strainer and put on a large platter.
Reheat the oil and let the body pieces “go through the oil” for about 10 seconds.
Empty the oil into a container and save it for other purposes. Wash and dry the wok.

Harissa mini fish cakes with preserved lemon

Harissa mini fish cakes with preserved lemon

1 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed
1 tsp paprika
1lb (450g) firm white fish fillets (such as
hake, snapper, sea bream (porgy), or
cod), skin and bones removed
rind of ½ preserved lemon, any white pith
removed and rind finely diced (see below)
4 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
½ bunch of fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped
2 tsp harissa sauce (available in cans or jars
in Middle Eastern markets)
1 egg
juice of ½ lemon
vegetable oil for frying
salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a small pan, heat the olive oil and cook the garlic and coriander seeds until
golden brown and fragrant. Stir in the paprika and remove from the heat.
Put the fish in a food processor with the aromatic cooked spice mixture, the
preserved lemon rind, scallions, and cilantro. Add in the harissa and egg, and
season with salt and pepper. Add half of the lemon juice and process until smooth.
eat the vegetable oil in large frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook a
small piece of the mixture and taste to check the seasoning. Adjust with
salt and pepper, and an extra squeeze of fresh lemon juice if needed. Roll the
fish cakes into 16 equal portions. Cook in small batches until golden brown on
all sides. Drain on paper towels. Serve with a cucumber salad dressed with ground cinnamon and a little
orange juice, or as a canapé with drinks before a meal.
Preserved lemons Place 2 lemons in a small saucepan with a tight-fitting lid.
Cover with cold water. Add 3 heaping tablespoons sea salt (the salt removes the
bitterness from the skin). Bring the water to a boil, and simmer for 10–12 minutes
or until the lemons are soft when pierced with the tip of a knife. Remove with a
slotted spoon and refresh under cold running water. When cool, cut in half. Using
a sharp knife, remove all the flesh and white pith. Trim down the lemon skin from
the inside, so only the lemon zest remains. Cover the lemon zest with olive oil and
you have preserved lemon; it keeps covered in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.

Grilled sardines

Grilled sardines

6 bay leaves, coarsely chopped
2 tbsp salt
4 green cardamom pods
2 garlic cloves
2 small dried red chilies
1 tsp ground allspice
2 tbsp olive oil
12 fresh sardines, cleaned inside and out
(you can ask your fishmonger to do this)
1 lemon, cut into quarters lengthwise, then
cut crosswise into triangular slices
½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
freshly ground black pepper





Preheat a charcoal grill, barbecue, or grill pan until white-hot. Using a pestle
and mortar, grind the bay leaves with the salt until you are left with a bright
green powder. (This bay leaf salt is delicious on its own and can be used to
season roast potatoes or grilled meats or fish.) Add the cardamom pods and
continue to grind until fine. Sift the mixture through a sieve into a bowl, and
discard any husks or pieces of stalk.
Crush the garlic, dried chilies, and allspice, again using a pestle and mortar,
and mix with the other spices in a bowl. Add the olive oil.
Pat the inside of the sardines dry with paper towels, then rub some of
the spice marinade over the inside and outside of each fish. Mix the lemon
slices with the remaining spice marinade. Season with lots of pepper. Mix in
the parsley. Stuff the sardines with the lemon and parsley mixture.
Grill the sardines for 3–4 minutes on each side or until golden brown
and crispy on both sides. With small fish such as this, it is important not
to overcook the fish—otherwise it will dry out. As the sardines are small and
the grill or pan is hot, remember that the sardines will continue cooking when
removed from the heat.
Serve these fantastic little fish hot with wedges of lemon, a selection of
salads, and lots of fresh bread. The salt, sourness, and heat of the spice
marinade and the lemon slices cut the richness of the fish.

Fisherman’s tuna stew

Fisherman’s tuna stew
This fish stew, which Basque fisherman call marmitako de bonito,
was originally made at sea to provide for a hungry crew.
2lb (900g) baking potatoes
1lb 10oz (750g) tuna steaks
12oz (340g) roasted red peppers
3 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 bay leaf
salt and freshly ground black pepper
one 14.5oz (411g) can chopped tomatoes
2 cups frozen baby peas
2 tbsp chopped parsley
method
Peel the potatoes and cut into thick rounds. Cut the tuna into pieces roughly the same size
as the potatoes. Cut the peppers into strips.
Heat the oil in a flame-proof casserole over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and bay leaf
and cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes, or until the onions are translucent. Stir in the
potatoes. Add cold water to cover and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and cook about
10 minutes, or until the potatoes are almost tender. Add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the tuna and cook for 5 minutes. Add the peas and pepper
strips and simmer for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Ladle into soup bowls and serve hot.

Grilled snapper in banana leaves

Grilled snapper in banana leaves
Grilling fish in banana leaves allows the fish to
steam in its own moisture. The leaves also give a wonderful smoked flavor.
The fish
Red snapper, or mahi mahi, black sea bass,
or Patagonian toothfish
Ingredients
1 red snapper, about 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), scaled and gutted
2–3 large banana leaves
1 tsp sesame oil, plus more for the banana leaves lime wedges, to serve
For the marinade
2 tbsp coarsely chopped cilantro
1⁄2 tbsp grated ginger
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
grated zest of 1 lime
1 red chile, seeded and chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Make 3–4 slashes on each side of the fish,
nearly to the bone.
Put the marinade ingredients into a blender,
and chop. Press into the slashes in the fish, and
the cavity. Set aside for 15–20 minutes.
Blanch the banana leaves in boiling water for
30 seconds to soften. Remove with tongs and
rinse under cold running water. Cut the thick
vein from the center, and arrange them overlapping on a large cutting board, shiny side
down. Brush with sesame oil. Put the fish on the leaves and wrap to encase the body (the
head and tail can be visible). If necessary, secure the leaves with cocktail sticks.
Preheat the grill until glowing red and the coals are ash gray. Cook the fish, turning
often, to prevent the leaves from burning. It will take around 18–20 minutes. Insert a metal
skewer into the center of the fish, through the leaves, for 30 seconds. If the fish is cooked, the
skewer will emerge piping hot. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with lime wedges. Unwrap

Tom yum goong

Tom yum goong
Tamarind gives the right piquant note to this
key Thai recipe for hot and sour prawn soup.
Ingredients
1 tbsp sunflower or peanut oil
1 tsp shrimp paste
2 bird’s eye chiles, finely chopped, and seeded
(if preferred)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp palm sugar
2 scallions, finely sliced
2oz (60g) shiitake mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
2 tbsp tamarind paste, to taste
1 quart well-flavored fish stock
1 stalk lemongrass, halved
2in (5cm) piece galangal or fresh ginger, peeled and
finely sliced
a few kaffir lime leaves
1–2 tbsp Thai fish sauce, to taste
1 tsp sesame oil
1lb (450g) raw tiger prawns, peeled but tail intact, deveined and butterflied
squeeze of lime juice, to taste handful of roughly chopped cilantro leaves
Heat the oil in a large pan, add the shrimp paste, and cook over low heat for 1–2 minutes
until aromatic. Add the chiles, garlic, palm sugar, scallions, and mushrooms; stir for 2 minutes.
Add the tamarind, stock, lemongrass, galangal, and lime leaves. Bring to a boil and simmer for
2–3 minutes. Season with fish sauce and add the sesame oil and prawns. Poach over low heat for
3–4 minutes or until the prawns are cooked. Add lime juice, or more tamarind, or fish sauce
to taste. Stir in the cilantro and serve.
Variation
Tom yum talay
Begin as above, adding 3 chiles, 1 tbsp palm sugar, 3 scallions, and 1 diced red bell pepper.
Omit the mushrooms. Add a 14oz (400g) can of coconut milk. Bring to a boil, simmer for 3
minutes. Add 2 cups of stock, the lemongrass, galangal and lime leaves; omit the tamarind
and sesame oil. Simmer for a few minutes. Add 2–3 tbsp Thai fish sauce and 1lb (450g)
mixed seafood (add squid at the last minute), lime, and cilantro leaves.

Lobster bisque

Lobster bisque
A rich and luxurious shellfish soup.

Ingredients
1 lobster, about 21⁄4lb (1kg) in total, cooked
3 tbsp butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 leek, finely chopped
1⁄2 bulb fennel, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of tarragon
2 garlic cloves, crushed
21⁄2oz (75g) tomato purée
4 tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1⁄2 cup Cognac or brandy
2⁄3 cup dry white wine or vermouth
6 cups fish stock
1⁄2 cup heavy cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper pinch of cayenne pepper juice of 1⁄2 lemon
snipped chives, to garnish Split the lobster and remove the meat . Crack all the shells with the back of
a knife. Chop the shells into coarse pieces and put the meat into the refrigerator.
Melt the butter in a large pan over medium heat, add the vegetables, herbs, and garlic, and
cook for 10 minutes, or until softened, stirring occasionally. Add the lobster shells. Stir in the
tomato purée, tomatoes, Cognac, white wine, and stock. Bring to a boil and simmer for 1 hour.
Let cool slightly, then pulse-blend in a food processor until the shell breaks into very small
pieces. Push through a coarse sieve, then pass through a fine sieve. Return to the heat.
Bring to a boil, add the lobster meat and cream, then season, adding cayenne and
lemon. Serve in warmed bowls, with chives.The bisque can be made to the end of step 3 up
to 1 day in advance. Cover, and chill. Finish the recipe just before serving.

New England clam chowder

New England clam chowder
Clams must be cooked on the day of purchase,
so when you find great clams, make sure you
also have all the ingredients in your kitchen for
this fabulous soup.
Ingredients
13⁄4 (800g) clams, thoroughly washed
1 tbsp oil
4oz (115g) thick-cut bacon strips, diced
2 floury potatoes, such as Russet Burbank, peeled
and cut into chunks
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1⁄2 cup half-and-half
2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish
Discard any open clams, then shell the rest,
reserving the juices (see page 279). Add enough water to the juices to make 2 cups. Chop the
clams. Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan, and fry the bacon over medium heat for 5
minutes, or until crisp. Remove. Add the potatoes and onion and fry gently for 5 minutes.
Stir in the flour for 2 minutes, then add the clam juice and milk, and season.
Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.
Add the clams and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Stir in the half-and-half and
reheat without boiling. Serve sprinkled with bacon and parsley, and provide saltines or
oyster crackers on the side.
Variation
Manhattan cod and mussel chowder Replace the clams with 21⁄4lb (1kg) mussels,
adding 1 cup of dry white wine to the juices before topping up with water. When adding the
potatoes, add 2 x 14oz (400g) cans tomatoes, 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped, and 1–2 tbsp
tomato purée. Use only half the flour and replace the milk with fish stock. Add 21⁄4lb (1kg)
cod fillets, cut into chunks, Sprinkle with thyme and serve with whole wheat bread.

Herring salad with potatoes and beets

Herring salad with potatoes and beets

Oil-rich and packed with omega 3, herrings
have a fairly short shelf life, so preserving
them is common.
Pickled herring, or pickled sprats, marinated
anchovies, or smoked mackerel
1lb (450g) salad potatoes, scrubbed
4 large beets, cooked, peeled, and diced
4 scallions, finely sliced
1lb (450g) cured or pickled herring, or rollmops,
cut into 2in (5cm) pieces (see page 297)
sprigs of dill, to serve
For the dressing
2⁄3 cup mayonnaise
1 tbsp creamed horseradish
lemon juice, to taste
1–2 tsp German or Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook the potatoes in boiling water for about 15 minutes, or until tender, drain, and thickly
slice. Put into a bowl, and add the beets and scallions.
In a separate bowl, mix the mayonnaise, horseradish, lemon juice, and mustard to taste.
Season with salt and pepper. Add to the potato and beets and toss until well coated.
Divide the potato salad between 4 dishes and top with the herrings and dill to serve.
You can make the potato salad in advance, cover, and chill for 1–2 days. Bring to room
temperature before continuing.

Pad Thai

Pad Thai
Once you have gathered the ingredients, this dish comes together quickly
to create a fast weeknight supper.

12oz (350g) flat rice noodles
4 tbsp vegetable oil
2 tbsp chopped cilantro
1 small hot red chili, seeded and finely chopped
9oz (250g) large shrimp, peeled and deveined
4 shallots, finely chopped
4 large eggs, beaten
1 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp oyster sauce
1 tbsp Thai fish sauce
2 tbsp fresh lime juice
9oz (250g) bean sprouts
4 scallions, white and green parts, sliced
1 cup unsalted roasted peanuts
1 lime cut into 4 wedges, to serve

Soak the noodles in a bowl of hot water to cover for about 15 minutes, or until soft. Drain. Meanwhile, heat a wok or large frying pan over high heat. Add 2 tbsp of the oil, then the cilantro and chili. Immediately add the shrimp and stir-fry until the shrimp look opaque around
the edges, about 1 minute. Transfer to a plate. Add the remaining oil to the wok. Add the shallots and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the eggs and sugar and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, until the eggs are scrambled.
Stir in the oyster sauce, fish sauce, and lime juice. Add the noodles, bean sprouts, and shrimp. Stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the scallions and 1⁄2 cup of the peanuts, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Sprinkle with the remaining peanuts and garnish with lime wedges to serve. Good with a fresh salad of bean sprouts and shredded carrot, tossed with lime juice.

Lobster thermidor

Lobster thermidor
This irresistibly indulgent seafood dish is thought to be named in honor
of the play Thermidor, which opened in 1894 in Paris.

2 cooked lobsters, 11⁄2lb (675g) each
For the sauce
2 tbsp butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
1⁄2 cup dry white wine
2⁄3 cup heavy cream
1⁄2 cup fish stock
2 tbsp chopped parsley
2 tsp chopped tarragon
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1⁄2 tsp dry mustard
3⁄4 cup shredded Gruyère
salt and freshly ground black pepper
sweet paprika, for garnish
lemon wedges, for serving

Cut the lobsters in half lengthwise. Remove the meat from the claws and tail, along with any
coral or meat from the head. Cut the lobster meat into bite-sized pieces. Clean out the body shells
and reserve.
To prepare the sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the
shallots and cook about 2 minutes, until softened. Add the wine and boil for 2–3 minutes to
reduce the liquid by about half.
Add the cream and stock and boil rapidly, stirring often, about 7 minutes, until reduced and
beginning to thicken. Stir in the parsley, tarragon, lemon juice, and mustard. Stir in half of the
Gruyère. Season with salt and pepper.
Preheat the broiler. Add the lobster meat to the sauce, then divide between the lobster shells.
Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top.
Place on a foil-lined broiler rack. Broil for 2–3 minutes, until bubbling and golden. Sprinkle with
a little paprika. Serve hot, with lemon wedges.

Baked porgy

Baked porgy
This Spanish dish works well with many whole fish, such as porgy (as shown
here), snapper, or trout.

2 porgy, about 21oz (600g) each
2 tbsp tapenade, preferably homemade
1 lemon
3 tbsp olive oil
11⁄2lb (675g) red-skinned potatoes,
very thinly sliced
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 red or green bell peppers,
seeded and sliced into thin rings
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tsp hot smoked paprika
1⁄2 cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make 2 parallel diagonal cuts in the thickest parts on each side of each fish. Place in a
nonmetallic dish and spread the tapenade over the inside and outside of the fish. Cut 2 slices of
the lemon. Tuck a lemon slice into each fish and squeeze the juice from the remaining lemon over
the top. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 and up to 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Coat an oven-proof dish with 1 tbsp of the oil. Layer half
the potatoes in the dish. Layer the onions and peppers on top, sprinkle with the garlic and parsley,
sprinkle with the paprika, then top with the remaining potatoes. Drizzle the remaining oil over the
potatoes and sprinkle with 3 tbsp water. Cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 40 minutes.
Increase the oven to 425°F (220°C). Place the fish on top of the potatoes, pour the wine over
the fish, and season well with salt and pepper. Return the dish to the oven, uncovered, for 20
minutes, until the fish is opaque when pierced with a knife. Serve immediately.
The fish can be prepared to the end of step 1 up to 6 hours in advance.

Bouillabaisse

Bouillabaisse
Originally nothing more than a humble fisherman’s soup using the remains
of the day’s catch, bouillabaisse has evolved into one of the great dishes.

1⁄4 cup olive oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 leeks, thinly sliced
1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
2–3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 tomatoes, skinned, seeded, and chopped
1 cup dry white wine
1 tbsp tomato paste
6 cups hot fish or chicken stock
1 bouquet garni with 1 celery stalk,
4 thyme springs, and 1 bay leaf
pinch of saffron threads
1 strip of orange zest
1 tbsp chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground pepper

3lb (1.35kg) mixed fish fillets and shellfish, such
as red snapper, cod, bluefish, clams, mussels,
and shrimp, prepared as necessary
2 tbsp Pernod (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 thin slices day-old French bread,
toasted, for serving
For the rouille
1⁄2 cup mayonnaise
1 small, fresh hot red chili,
seeded and roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 tbsp tomato paste
1⁄2 tsp salt

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion, leeks, fennel, and garlic
and cook, stirring frequently, for 5–8 minutes, or until the vegetables are softened but not colored.
Add the tomatoes, wine, and tomato paste and stir until blended.
Add the stock, bouquet garni, saffron, orange zest, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat, partially cover the pan. Simmer for 30 minutes, or until the soup is reduced
slightly, stirring occasionally.
To make the rouille, place all ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Transfer
to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until needed.
Cut the fish into bite-sized chunks. Remove the orange zest and bouquet garni from the stock,
and add the shellfish. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 3 minutes. Add the fish fillets and
simmer for 2–3 minutes more or until the fish flakes easily. Stir in the Pernod, if using, and season
with salt and pepper.
To serve, spread each piece of toast with rouille and put 2 slices in the bottom of each bowl.
Ladle in the soup, including a good selection of fish and shellfish.
good wIth A crisp, dry white wine or a Côtes de Provence rosé. Serve leftover rouille
as a spread on a sandwich or as a dip.
The rouille can be made and chilled for up to 2 days.

Dressed crab

Dressed crab
A quintessential English classic, perfect for a summer’s day. For the best results, buy the
crab live and cook it yourself .


Ingredients
1 brown crab, about 33⁄4–41⁄2lb (1.3–2kg), cooked
splash of oil
2–3 tbsp fresh white breadcrumbs
dried English mustard, to taste
cayenne pepper, to taste
Worcestershire sauce, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 egg, hard-boiled
chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish
Remove the brown and white meat from the crab and set aside separately.
The mouth, stomach sac, and gills must all be discarded.
Wash the shell well and brush with a little oil.
Mix the brown meat with enough breadcrumbs to bind. Add mustard, cayenne, Worcestershire
sauce, and pepper, to taste. Flake the white meat into a bowl, taking care to locate and
discard any chips of shell. Neatly arrange both white and brown meat
back in the cleaned shell and garnish with chopped hard-boiled egg white, sieved hardboiled
egg yolks, and parsley. Serve with bread and wedges of lemon.
Prepare ahead
Pick out the crab meat, put the white and
brown meat into separate bowls, cover, and
chill for up to 1 day before continuing.

Seafood ceviche

Seafood ceviche
A brief, light pickling of raw fish conserves its freshness and brings out the true flavor.

Ingredients
1lb (450g) very fresh, firm-fleshed fish fillets,
pinboned and skinned
1 red onion, finely sliced
juice of 2 lemons or limes
1 tbsp olive oil
1⁄2 tsp hot paprika
1 chile, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Wrap the fish in plastic wrap or foil, and put it in the freezer for 1 hour to firm up the flesh.
This will make it easier to slice. With a sharp knife, slice the fish into very thin slivers.
Spread the onion evenly in the bottom of a shallow, non-metallic dish. Pour over the
lemon juice and olive oil, then sprinkle with the paprika and chile.
Place the fish on the onion, gently turning to coat with the marinade. Cover and marinate
in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes,preferably more than 1 hour. Season, sprinkle
with parsley, and serve with crusty bread.
Prepare ahead
The ceviche can be assembled, covered, and
chilled up to 2 hours in advance. Return it to
room temperature before serving.

Thai crab cakes

Thai crab cakes
These make a delicious starter, or transform into a main course with rice noodles.
Ingredients
1lb 2oz (500g) white crabmeat
4oz (115g) green beans, trimmed
and finely chopped
1 green or red chile, seeded and
very finely chopped
1 tsp lemongrass, very finely chopped
finely grated zest of 1 lime
1 tbsp Thai fish sauce
1 tbsp finely chopped Chinese chives
or garlic chives
1 egg white, lightly beaten
flour, to dust
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
lime wedges, to serve
Flake the crabmeat into a bowl, picking it over carefully to remove any small, sharp pieces of
shell. Mix in the green beans, chile, lemongrass, lime zest, fish sauce, and chives.
Add the egg white, stirring to bind the mixture together. Dust your hands with flour
and shape the mixture into 20 small balls. Flatten them slightly into round cakes, place
on a plate or board, spaced slightly apart so they don’t stick together, and chill for 1 hour,
or until firm. Heat the oil to 325°F (160°C) in a large pan of deep-fat fryer (see page 308).
Dust the crab cakes with flour and deep-fry them in batches
for 3 minutes, or until golden. Drain on a plate lined with paper towels and serve warm with lime wedges.
Prepare ahead
The crab cakes can be assembled, covered,
and chilled up to 1 day ahead. The flavors
will deepen. Return them to room temperature
before continuing.

Oysters with shallot and vinegar dressing

Oysters with shallot and vinegar dressing
European tradition, dating back to the Romans, serves oysters raw on the half
shell. Both Pacific and native oysters can be used.
Ingredients
24 oysters, in their shells
crushed ice
4 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 large or 2 small shallots, very finely chopped
Shuck the oysters , taking care not to pour out any of the juices.
Arrange the oysters on a traditional oyster plate with
ice, or pack 4 serving dishes with lots of
crushed ice and place the oysters on top.
Mix the vinegar and shallot together and
put into a small dish. Place in the center of the
oysters or the middle of the table and serve.
Variation
Oysters with lemon and Tabasco Shuck the oysters as directed and serve on
crushed ice, with lemon wedges and Tabasco sauce on the side. Allow your guests to choose
their dressing, or to eat the oysters unadorned.

Moules marinières

Moules marinières
This classic French recipe mussels in wine, garlic, and herbs translates as “in the
fisherman’s style.”
Ingredients
4 tbsp butter
2 onions, finely chopped
8lb (3.6kg) mussels, prepared (see page 278)
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 cups dry white wine
4 bay leaves
2 sprigs of thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2–4 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
Melt the butter in a large, heavy saucepan, add the onions, and fry gently until lightly
browned. Add the mussels, garlic, wine, bay leaves, and thyme. Season to taste. Cover, bring
to a boil, and cook for 5–6 minutes, or until the mussels have opened, shaking frequently.
Remove the mussels with a slotted spoon, discarding any that remain closed. Transfer
them to warmed bowls, cover, and keep warm. Strain the liquor into a pan and bring to
a boil. Season to taste, add the parsley, pour over the mussels, and serve at once.

Brandade de morue

Brandade de morue
This dish of creamed salt cod is especially popular in the South of France.
Ingredients
1lb (450g) salt cod
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 cup olive oil
1⁄2 cup hot milk
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
freshly ground black pepper
extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle
triangles of white bread, fried in olive oil, to serve
Mediterranean black olives, to serve
Soak the fish in a bowl of cold water for 24 hours, changing the water 3 or 4 times.
Drain the cod and place in a large, shallow pan, then cover it with fresh cold water and
bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 10 minutes,then remove the pan from the heat and leave the cod to sit in the water for a further 10 minutes before draining.
Remove the skin and bones from the fish, then flake the flesh into a bowl and pound to
a paste with the garlic. Put the fish paste in a pan over gentle heat.
Beat in sufficient olive oil and milk, a little at a time, to make a creamy white mixture that
holds its shape. Serve hot, sprinkled with parsley, pepper, and extra virgin olive oil, with
the bread triangles and olives.
Prepare ahead
The salt cod and garlic paste can be made up
to the end of step 3, then covered, and chilled,
for up to 1 day before serving. The flavor of the
garlic will deepen. Bring the paste back to room
temperature before continuing.

Marinated anchovies

Marinated anchovies
This is a traditional Spanish recipe, usually served as a chilled tapas.
Ingredients
9oz (250g) fresh anchovies
2 tbsp coarse sea salt
11⁄4 cups sherry vinegar
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
grated zest of 1–2 lemons, to taste
sprigs of marjoram or thyme
freshly ground black pepper
Rub the scales from the anchovies with your fingers, then gut and bone the fish. Wash and
pat dry. Lay them in a single layer in a shallow dish, sprinkle with salt, then pour over the
vinegar. Cover and refrigerate for 12–18 hours.Drain away the salt and vinegar cure, and pat
the fish dry. Arrange on a clean serving dish and sprinkle with the olive oil, lemon zest (add
a squeeze of lemon juice, too, if you like), and marjoram. Season with pepper, and serve with
crusty bread, providing toothpicks for your guests to use to spear the anchovies.
Prepare ahead
The anchovies must be cured at least 12 hours
ahead, so you will only need to drain away the
vinegar, and add the dressing to serve