Hummus with cinnamon lamb

Hummus with cinnamon lamb
Serves 6
2 garlic cloves
¼ tsp crushed dried red chilies
1 (15oz) can chickpeas (garbanzo beans),
drained and rinsed
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp cayenne pepper
small handful of flat-leaf parsley, plus extra,
coarsely chopped, for garnish
3 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp Greek-style yogurt
2 tbsp sunflower oil
¼lb (115g) ground or minced lamb
1 tsp ground cinnamon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped toasted almonds or walnuts,
to garnish (optional)
To make the hummus, crush the garlic with the dried chili flakes and a little
salt until you have a smooth paste. In the bowl of a food processor, combine
the rinsed chickpeas with the garlic paste and olive oil and process until almost
smooth. Using a spatula, push all the mixture down from the sides of the bowl
before adding the cayenne pepper, parsley, and lemon juice. Season with salt
and pepper, and add the yogurt. With the motor running, gradually add the
sunflower oil in a thin, steady stream until you have a smooth light paste.
(If you want a slightly thinner consistency, simply add a little water.)
Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat, add a little oil, and cook the lamb
until brown and crispy. Sprinkle over the cinnamon and season well with salt
and pepper. Stir through well.
Spoon the lamb into a well in the center of the chickpea purée, and
sprinkle with the extra chopped parsley. This is a delicious sauce that
complements grilled meat, fish, or vegetables. If desired, garnish with chopped
toasted almonds or walnuts.

Zucchini stuffed with lamb and pine nuts

Zucchini stuffed with lamb and pine nuts
Serves 6
2lb (900g) small zucchini
½ cup olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp ground cinnamon
1 onion, finely chopped
1¼lb (550g) ground lamb
¾ cup pine nuts
3 ripe tomatoes
30 flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
juice of 1 lemon
1 cup good-quality chicken stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cut the tops off the zucchini and, using a small spoon or melon baller, hollow out the inside of each.
Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat.
Cook the garlic, cumin, cloves, and cinnamon for a couple of minutes until
fragrant. Add the onion and cook until soft and pale golden, then add the lamb.
Continue cooking until all the liquid has evaporated, breaking up and stirring the
lamb around the pan to brown evenly. Season well with salt and pepper. Mix in
the pine nuts. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Cut a cross in the bottom of the tomatoes and, using the tip of a small
sharp knife, remove the core from each one. Blanch in boiling water for
10 seconds, then refresh in cold water. Peel off the skin and discard. Cut the
tomatoes in half, remove the seeds, and cut the flesh into a small dice. Set aside.
Using a small spoon, stuff the zucchini with the lamb mixture, pushing the
filling down into each zucchini so it is plump with stuffing. Heat the
remaining oil, and cook the zucchini, turning, until soft. Cook in batches while
continuing to stuff the remainder of the zucchini.
Mix the diced tomato with the parsley, and season with salt and pepper.
Add the lemon juice and chicken stock. Place the cooked zucchini in a
flameproof dish. Pour the tomato mixture over the top, and cook over medium
heat until the sauce is hot. Serve with rice or bread. This dish works particularly
well with a selection of other mezze dishes, with lots of hot bread to soak up
all the good cooking juices.

Lamb kebabs with white bean and tomato salad

Lamb kebabs with 
white bean and tomato salad
Serves 4–6
2 garlic cloves, halved
a little olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1lb (450g) ground lamb
handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves,
coarsely chopped
handful of fresh cilantro leaves,
coarsely chopped
½ cup unsalted pistachio nuts,
coarsely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper




For the salad
1 cup dried cannellini beans
2 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole
½ bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked
and chopped (stalks reserved)
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin
2 ripe tomatoes, cut into ½in (1cm) dice
To make the salad, soak the beans overnight in a large bowl of cold water.
Drain and rinse under cold running water. Put into a large heavy pot, and
cover with fresh cold water. Add the garlic, reserved parsley stalks, and a splash
of olive oil. Do not add salt. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for
1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes, or until the beans are tender but still
slightly firm to the bite. Drain off the liquid. Stir in the vinegar, extra virgin olive oil,
and cumin to the beans. Season well with salt and pepper. Let sit for about 20
minutes to blend the flavors. Stir in the tomatoes and parsley just before serving.
To make the kebabs, soak the bamboo skewers in cold water for at least
30 minutes so they do not burn. Crush the garlic with a little salt to make a
paste. Heat a little oil in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the onion
for 4 minutes or until soft. Add the garlic, cumin, paprika, and cayenne, and cook
for a couple of minutes longer, or until fragrant. Remove from the heat, transfer to
a bowl, and let cool for 5 minutes. Add the lamb, parsley, cilantro, and pistachios.
Season well. Mold the lamb mixture onto one end of the skewer, making a cylindeof meat around roughly half its length. Heat a little oil in a large heavy frying pan
over medium-high heat. Cook the kofte kebabs in batches until golden brown all
over. Drain on paper towels. Serve with the salad and lots of fresh crusty bread.

Triglie de scoglio 
Pan-fried red mullet with preserved lemon, olives, and parsley
Serves 4
2 lemons
3 tbsp rock salt
1 garlic clove, halved and any green inner
shoot discarded
30 black olives, pitted and coarsely
chopped
½–1 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chili,
seeded and finely chopped
20 fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
20 flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
a little light olive oil
4 fresh red mullet or other small firm, lean
fish, 9–14oz (250–400g) each, gutted, scaled, and cleaned
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper To make the preserved lemon, put the lemons into a small, tight-fitting pan. Cover with water and add the rock salt. Place a small lid or saucer on top
of the lemons to keep them submerged. Bring to a boil, and simmer until tender
when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 8–10 minutes. Refresh under cold
running water. When the lemons are cool, cut in half, remove all the flesh and pith,
and discard. Using a thin sharp knife, trim the inside of the skin, removing any
remaining traces of the bitter white pith. Finely chop the lemon skin and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Using the back of a knife, crush the
garlic with a little sea salt, until a smooth paste forms. Mix together the
garlic, olives, chili, basil, parsley, and preserved lemon. Add the lemon juice
and olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.
Take one of the red mullet and pat dry with paper towels. Stuff the cavity
with some of the olive and lemon mixture. Repeat the process with the
remaining mullet. Season the fish inside and out with salt and pepper. Heat a little
oil in an frying pan over medium-high heat. Pan-fry the mullet for 3 minutes. Turn
gently and cook the other side for 2 minutes. Transfer the mullet to a baking dish,
and bake in the oven for 5 minutes or until cooked through. (Alternatively, either
grill the fish or bake entirely in the oven.) Serve at once with some mixed greens
or braised spinach. The smoky roasted mullet and the stuffing combine brilliantly.

Cipolle d’inverno e pancetta alla griglia

Cipolle d’inverno e pancetta  alla griglia 
Grilled scallions  wrapped in pancetta
Serves 8
24 scallions (green onions), trimmed
and peeled
good-quality olive oil
16 thin pancetta slices
2 lemons, cut into wedges
crushed dried red chilies
a few fresh basil or arugula leaves (optional)
fresh Italian bread such as ciabatta or
focaccia, or other crusty bread rolls
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the scallions in a bowl, and drizzle with a little olive oil. Season well
with salt and pepper; toss to coat.
On a clean work surface, lay out two strips of pancetta side by side, with the long sides together. Repeat with all the pancetta, so that you have a bit of a production line. Place 3 scallions at one end of each of the pancetta strips,
and roll the pancetta tightly around the scallions to cover. Grill on a preheated hot barbecue or grill pan, or under a hot broiler, for a couple of minutes on each side until golden and crispy. Transfer to a cutting board, and cut into small ¾in (2cm) chunks. (Cutting up the scallions makes them much easier to eat.)
Split open a crusty bread roll and put the scallion pieces inside. Drizzle
with a little olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Squeeze a little lemon
juice over the top, and sprinkle with a few crushed chilies. Add a few basil or
arugula leaves. Sandwich the filled roll together, and place on the barbecue or
under the broiler for a couple of minutes each side so that it is toasted.
Eat at once, with your sleeves rolled up and lots of paper napkins on hand.
This dish is ideal as part of a summer picnic or barbecue, or as a starter
before the main meat or fish is grilled. Alternatively, chop the grilled scallion into
pieces, pile on top of crostini, drizzle with a little olive oil, and sprinkle with
chopped basil or arugula. Season with the lemon and crushed chilies, and eat
with your fingers.

Crispeddi Semolina flour fritters

Crispeddi Semolina flour fritters
Serves 6–8
2 small cakes (0.6oz each) fresh yeast
1 cup hot water (about 110°F/43°C)
4–5½ cups semolina flour
¾ cup fresh ricotta
4 salt-packed anchovies, chopped
1 tbsp salt-packed capers, rinsed, drained,
squeezed dry, and chopped
1 tsp chopped fennel fronds or
½ tsp crushed fennel seeds
pinch of sea salt
pinch of sugar
light olive oil for deep frying
freshly ground black pepper
Mix the yeast with a little of the hot water to make a paste. Put the semolina flour in a large bowl. Make a well in the center, add the yeast paste and the  remaining hot water, and whisk to make a batter. Let rise in a warm, draft-free spot for 2 hours, as you would with bread dough.
Mix the ricotta with the anchovy and capers. Add lots of black pepper and
the fennel, salt, and sugar. Roll the ricotta mixture into balls about 1⁄4in (2cm)
in diameter. Use a little oil on your hands so that they do not stick. Heat the oil in
a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Dip the balls into the batter and, using a
spoon, drop very gently into the pan to avoid splattering. Cook for 4–5 minutes
or until golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towels and serve at once.
Panelle (chickpea fritters) This much-loved snack is often served sandwiched
in a ciabatta roll. It is best eaten piping hot and fresh from the oven. Mix 3¾ cups
chickpea flour with a pinch of salt, 2 tbsp olive oil, and 5½ cups water in a heavy
saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon,
to prevent the mixture from sticking. Continue cooking for 20 minutes, or until the
mixture starts to pull away from the edges. Season with salt and black pepper.
Line a bread pan with plastic wrap. Pour the batter into the pan, and cover the
surface with another layer of plastic wrap. Let sit until firm, at least 2 hours.
Heat a baking sheet in the oven at 400°F (200°C). Turn out the loaf onto a work
surface and cut into thin slices. Remove the baking sheet from the oven, and
add a splash of olive oil. Place the slices on the tray, and return to the oven.
Check after 4 minutes and, when the slices are golden brown, turn over to brown
on the other side. Serve at once with freshly grated Parmesan, coarsely chopped
flat-leaf parsley, some lemon wedges, and a few grindings of black pepper.

Chee pow kai Paper-wrapped chicken

Chee pow kai Paper-wrapped chicken
Makes 23–30 parcels
1½in (3.5cm) piece of fresh ginger, peeled
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp rice wine
1 tsp spiced salt (see below)
½ tsp sugar
5 star anise, broken into pieces
vegetable oil for deep-frying
6 chicken breast halves (1½–3lb total)
fresh cilantro leaves (optional)
fresh chili sauce (optional)
freshly ground black pepper
For the spiced salt
2 tbsp salt
1 tsp five-spice powder
To make the spiced salt, mix together the salt and five-spice powder. Dryroastin a clean frying pan over low heat for 3–4 minutes until fragrant, stirring the mixture to prevent burning. Let cool. This keeps indefinitely when stored
airtight at room temperature.Using a pestle and mortar, crush the ginger to a coarse pulp. Take the pulp in your hand and squeeze all the juice from the ginger into a bowl.
(Alternatively, finely chop the ginger, then mash on a board using the back of
a knife until you have a coarse pulp.) Discard the squeezed pulp.
Mix the juice with the soy sauce, rice wine, 1 tsp spiced salt, sugar, star
anise, and 1 tbsp oil. Lay the chicken breasts in a flat glass or ceramic
dish. Pour the marinade over the top and season with black pepper. Marinate
the chicken in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
Cut parchment paper into 30 rectangles measuring about 12 x 6in
(30 x 15cm) each. Lightly oil each piece of paper. Cut each chicken breast
into 5 even-sized pieces, and place a piece of chicken on each piece of paper
with a little piece of star anise picked from the marinade. Tightly wrap up the
chicken like a small parcel, using toothpicks to secure the edges.
Heat the oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat for deep-frying. Fry
the chicken parcels in batches for 3–4 minutes or until the paper browns.
Drain well on paper towels and serve, allowing your guests to unwrap the parcels
for themselves. Garnish with lots of fresh cilantro and chili sauce (if using).

Chaat Ratnesh Spicy seasoned potato in a cone

Chaat Ratnesh  
Spicy seasoned potato in a cone
Serves 8
3 all-purpose medium potatoes
2 tbsp flaked coconut
a little vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
8oz (225g) mixed mung bean sprouts and
alfalfa sprouts, rinsed and drained
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely diced
2 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
juice of 1 lemon
30 fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
3 tbsp Date and Tamarind Chutney
salt and freshly ground black pepper
First make the cones to hold the filling; these will take the greatest amount
of time, so it is better to have them all ready before you start cooking. You
will need some banana leaves. Cut them into 4in x 8in (10cm x 20cm) rectangles,
allowing for 3 rectangles per person. Roll each rectangle into a tight cone. Secure
the edges with a toothpick to hold in place.
Peel the potatoes and cut into ½in (1cm) chunks. Place in a pan of cold
water with a little salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer
until the potato is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, but still
firm. Drain in a sieve and let cool.
Place a dry heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add the coconut and toast,
stirring often, until golden brown. Remove and set aside. Add a little oil
to the pan, and cook the onion for 3–4 minutes until golden brown. Increase the
heat to high, add the bean sprouts, and cook quickly for another 2 minutes. Next
add the chilies and red bell pepper. Cook quickly for another couple of minutes
until the mixture is crisp-tender. Season well with salt and black pepper. Stir
in the lemon juice.
Combine the cooked mixture with the diced potato, scallions, and Date
and Tamarind Chutney. Stir in the cilantro. Taste the mixture and adjust the
seasoning. The seeds and coconut should provide a good crunch. Using a small
spoon, fill the cones and hand them to your guests with small spoons to eat
the filling. Eat at once so the filling does not soften the cone. You can refill the
banana-leaf cones as needed.

Moily haldi Coconut and turmeric fish soup

Moily haldi  
Coconut and turmeric fish soup
Serves 4–6
2 tbsp vegetable oil
3 tbsp raw cashews
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and
finely chopped
2 fresh red Thai chilies, seeded and
finely chopped, plus extra, cut into
slivers, for garnish (optional)
1 bunch of fresh cilantro, leaves and
stems finely chopped
2 onions, finely chopped
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tsp ground turmeric
3½ cups good-quality fish stock
1¼ cups canned unsweetened
coconut cream or coconut milk
2 tsp dark brown sugar
juice of 2 limes
1lb (450g) baby squid, cleaned
1lb (450g) uncooked large prawns, peeled,
deveined, and halved lengthwise
1lb (450g) firm white fish, cut into
bite-size chunks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat a heavy frying pan over medium heat. Add 1 tbsp of the oil, and lightly
brown the cashews. Set aside. In the same oil, cook the garlic, ginger, and chopped chilies for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Using a pestle and mortar, pound the cashews, cilantro stems, garlic, ginger, and chilies to make a paste. Set aside. Heat the remaining oil in a clean heavy pan over low heat. Add the
onion. Gently cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft. Meanwhile, crush the fennel seed and coriander seed using a pestle and mortar. When the onion is soft, add the fennel and coriander seeds and the
turmeric. Cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add half of the cashew paste. Pour in the fish stock and coconut cream, then add the sugar and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the lime juice and remaining nut paste. Taste
and adjust the seasoning. It should have a balance of sweet richness and acidity.
While the soup base is simmering, slit open the squid and, using a small
sharp knife, carefully score the outside in a crisscross pattern. Cut the squid
into bite-size pieces. Put in a bowl with the prawns and fish. Season well with salt
and pepper. Add to the soup, and simmer for 3 minutes or until the prawns turn
pink and the squid is opaque. Stir in half of the cilantro leaves. Serve at once in
small bowls garnished with the remaining cilantro leaves and red chilies (if using).

Masala papad Masala popadums with tomato and green chili

Masala papad Masala popadums 
with tomato and green chili
2 tsp ground cumin
3 tomatoes
1 onion, finely chopped
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
1 tsp medium-hot red chili powder
juice of 2 limes
½ bunch of fresh cilantro leaves
12 popadums or about 24 mini popadums
(use freshly cooked or store-bought)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the ground cumin in a small dry frying pan, and toast over medium heat
for about 2 minutes until fragrant.
Halve the tomatoes, remove the seeds, and cut the flesh into a fine dice.Mix the tomato and onion in a bowl with the green chilies. Season well with  salt and pepper. Add the toasted cumin powder and the chili powder, then stir in the lime juice. Scatter over the cilantro leaves and gently stir through.
When ready, scoop some of the mixture onto each of the popadums, and serve at once.

Piperade

Piperade
This savory scrambled egg dish is from the Basque region of southwest France.
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
3oz (85g) Serrano ham or prosciutto, chopped
4 ripe medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
8 large eggs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp chopped parsley
method
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook about 3 minutes,
until beginning to soften. Add the red and green peppers and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers soften, about 5 minutes. Add the ham and cook for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for about 7 minutes, or until the juices evaporate. Beat the eggs and season with salt and pepper. Pour into the pan and cook until scrambled, stirring often. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Quinoa tabbouleh

Quinoa tabbouleh
Whole grain quinoa makes a tasty and healthy summer salad. Be sure to rinse
it well in a fine sieve before cooking.
1 cup quinoa
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 small red onion, chopped
2 tbsp chopped parsley
2 tbsp chopped mint
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1⁄2 cup olive oil
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
2oz (60g) feta cheese
1⁄2 cup pitted and coarsely chopped Kalamata olives

method
Rinse the quinoa well in a fine mesh sieve. Drain and place it in a medium heavy-bottomed pan.
Stir constantly over a medium heat about 3 minutes, until the grains separate and begin to brown.
Add 2 1⁄4 cups water and
1⁄2 tsp salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and
cook for 15 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.
Add the cucumber, onion, parsley, and mint to the quinoa. Whisk together the oil and lemon
juice in a small bowl. Pour over the quinoa and mix.
Sprinkle with the feta cheese and olives. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Carciofi ripieni alla griglia

Carciofi ripieni alla griglia  
Grilled artichokes with garlic, chilies, and pine nuts
Serves 4–6

1⁄3 cup pine nuts
4 garlic cloves, halved and any green inner
shoot removed
2 small dried red chilies
1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley leaves,
finely chopped
3 tbsp good-quality extra virgin olive
oil plus extra for serving
juice of 2 lemons
18 baby artichokes (in season in spring and
early summer)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
lemon wedges for serving
Heat a charcoal grill until the coals are white-hot. Toast the pine nuts in a
dry frying pan over medium-high heat for 2–3 minutes until golden brown.
Watch carefully as they burn very easily. Finely chop the garlic, and finely crush
the dried chilies with a pinch of salt. Mix together the pine nuts, garlic, chilies,
parsley, olive oil, and lemon juice. Season well with salt and pepper.
Take an artichoke and trim down the stem. Pull the leaves apart, without
pulling them off. Work your way to the center of the artichoke. Using a
teaspoon, remove the hairy choke by scraping in a circular motion. Take a tsp
of pine nut mixture and push it down toward the base. Add another spoonful of
filling and spread it among the central inner leaves. Repeat with the remaining
artichokes. Season the inside of the artichokes with salt and pepper.
Carefully place the artichokes among the white-hot coals, keeping them
upright. Grill for 8–10 minutes, turning occasionally and cooking in batches if
necessary. To test whether they are cooked, hold an artichoke with a pair of tongs.
Insert the tip of small sharp knife into the base just above the stem. It should be
soft. If not, cook for a few more minutes. Remove from the heat. Cool slightly.
Have some extra virgin olive oil and the lemon wedges ready. Pull off and
discard the blackened outside leaves. Pour a little extra virgin olive oil into
the center and squeeze with lemon. Peel off and eat the inner leaves. The soft,
pale center can be eaten in a couple of mouthfuls, stalks and all.

Triglie de scoglio

Triglie de scoglio 
Pan-fried red mullet with preserved lemon, olives, and parsley
Serves 4
2 lemons
3 tbsp rock salt
1 garlic clove, halved and any green inner
shoot discarded
30 black olives, pitted and coarsely
chopped
½–1 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chili,
seeded and finely chopped
20 fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
20 flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
a little light olive oil
4 fresh red mullet or other small firm, lean
fish, 9–14oz (250–400g) each, gutted,
scaled, and cleaned
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make the preserved lemon, put the lemons into a small, tight-fitting pan.
Cover with water and add the rock salt. Place a small lid or saucer on top
of the lemons to keep them submerged. Bring to a boil, and simmer until tender
when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 8–10 minutes. Refresh under cold
running water. When the lemons are cool, cut in half, remove all the flesh and pith,
and discard. Using a thin sharp knife, trim the inside of the skin, removing any
remaining traces of the bitter white pith. Finely chop the lemon skin and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Using the back of a knife, crush the
garlic with a little sea salt, until a smooth paste forms. Mix together the
garlic, olives, chili, basil, parsley, and preserved lemon. Add the lemon juice
and olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.
Take one of the red mullet and pat dry with paper towels. Stuff the cavity
with some of the olive and lemon mixture. Repeat the process with the
remaining mullet. Season the fish inside and out with salt and pepper. Heat a little
oil in an frying pan over medium-high heat. Pan-fry the mullet for 3 minutes. Turn
gently and cook the other side for 2 minutes. Transfer the mullet to a baking dish,
and bake in the oven for 5 minutes or until cooked through. (Alternatively, either
grill the fish or bake entirely in the oven.) Serve at once with some mixed greens
or braised spinach. The smoky roasted mullet and the stuffing combine brilliantly.

Pollo con olive, cipolla e rosmarino ripieno Poussin stuffed with olives, onion, and rosemary

Pollo con  olive, cipolla e rosmarino ripieno Poussin stuffed with olives, onion, and rosemary

Spit-roasted chicken and potatoes in foil, eaten on a park bench in winter is one of my great memories from my trips to Sicily.I  bought family-run eateries dotted around Catania. The hand- cut potatoes cooked in the juices dripping from the chickens added another dimension to the repast. There are lots of different flavors here, and  the combination stimulates all the taste buds. It is very
easy to increase the stuffing in order to make this dish serve more people.
Preheat the oven 400°F (200°C). In a bowl, combine the onions, olives, and rosemary. Finely chop the garlic with the dried chilies. Add to the onion mixture with the 2 tbsp olive oil and the lemon juice. Mix well and season with salt and pepper. Stuff each chicken with a generous amount of the stuffing.
Heat a little oil in a heavy ovenproof frying pan over medium-high
heat. Season the outside of the chickens with salt and pepper. Brown the chickens in the pan, turning once to brown on all sides. When browned, transfer the whole pan to the oven and roast for 30–35 minutes until the meat is tender, basting regularly with all the roasting  juices. (If cooking a larger chicken, allow a longer cooking time usually 1 hour to 1 hour 20 minutes or so.)
To check, insert the tip of a small knife near the bone; if the juices run clear, the chicken is cooked.

Serves 4
4 onions, thinly sliced
3½oz (100g) black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
5 fresh rosemary sprigs, chopped
4 garlic cloves, halved and any green inner shoot discarded
2 small dried red chilies, crushed
2 tbsp olive oil plus a little extra juice of 1 lemon
4 poussins or baby chickens, about
1lb 2oz (500g) each
salt and freshly ground black pepper
this fabulous takeaway dish

Cipolle d’inverno e pancetta alla griglia Grilled scallions wrapped in pancetta

Cipolle d’inverno e pancetta alla griglia Grilled scallions wrapped in pancetta
I  had this deliciously simple and very tasty snack late at night when  I was in Palermo in Sicily, where it was being grilled in a square near some late-night drinking haunts. Despite the freezing February weather, everyone was drinking and eating outside, with many people huddled around large barbecue grills where lots
of tasty things were being cooked. The air was thick with the smoke and aromas of cooking food, and there were hungry partygoers hopping from foot to foot expectantly, waiting for their bread rolls to be removed from the grill.

Serves 8
24 scallions (green onions), trimmed and peeled
good-quality olive oil
16 thin pancetta slices
2 lemons, cut into wedges


crushed dried red chilies
a few fresh basil or arugula leaves (optional)
fresh Italian bread such as ciabatta or focaccia, or other crusty bread rolls
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the scallions in a bowl, and drizzle with a little olive oil. Season well with salt and pepper; toss to coat.
On a clean work surface, lay out two strips of pancetta side by side, with the long sides together. Repeat with all the pancetta, so that you have a bit of a production line. Place 3 scallions at one end of each of the pancetta strips, and roll the pancetta tightly around the scallions to cover. Grill on a preheated hot barbecue or grill pan, or under a hot broiler, for a couple of minutes on each side until golden and crispy. Transfer to a cutting board, and cut into small ¾in (2cm) chunks. (Cutting up the scallions makes them much easier to eat.)
Split open a crusty bread roll and put the scallion pieces inside. Drizzle with a little olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Squeeze a little lemon
juice over the top, and sprinkle with a few crushed chilies. Add a few basil or arugula leaves. Sandwich the filled roll together, and place on the barbecue or under the broiler for a couple of minutes each side so that it is toasted.
Eat at once, with your sleeves rolled up and lots of paper napkins on hand. This dish is ideal as part of a summer picnic or barbecue, or as a starter
before the main meat or fish is grilled. Alternatively, chop the grilled scallion into pieces, pile on top of crostini, drizzle with a little olive oil, and sprinkle with chopped basil or arugula. Season with the lemon and crushed chilies, and eat
with your fingers.

Crispeddi Semolina flour fritters

Crispeddi Semolina flour fritters
Serves 6–8

2 small cakes (0.6oz each) fresh yeast
1 cup hot water (about 110°F/43°C)
4–5½ cups semolina flour
¾ cup fresh ricotta
4 salt-packed anchovies, chopped
1 tbsp salt-packed capers, rinsed, drained, squeezed dry, and chopped
1 tsp chopped fennel fronds or
½ tsp crushed fennel seeds pinch of sea salt
pinch of sugar
light olive oil for deep frying freshly ground black pepper

These snacks are eaten on market days or the saint‘s day of a town or village. They are perfect to be shared among friends and are great with drinks to start an evening. Sun-dried tomatoes marinated in oregano and olive oil can be added to the ricotta mixture with or without the anchovies. Or try pieces of cooked bacon or coarsely chopped pitted olives instead. You can even omit the anchovies and simply
use fresh herbs such as basil and parsley, or arugula.
Mix the yeast with a little of the hot water to make a paste. Put the semolina
flour in a large bowl. Make a well in the center, add the yeast paste and the remaining hot water, and whisk to make a batter. Let rise in a warm, draft-free spot for 2 hours, as you would with bread dough.
Mix the ricotta with the anchovy and capers. Add lots of black pepper and the fennel, salt, and sugar. Roll the ricotta mixture into balls about 3⁄4in (2cm)
in diameter. Use a little oil on your hands so that they do not stick. Heat the oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Dip the balls into the batter and, using a spoon, drop very gently into the pan to avoid splattering. Cook for 4–5 minutes or until golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towels and serve at once.
Panelle (chickpea fritters) 
This much-loved snack is often served sandwiched
in a ciabatta roll. It is best eaten piping hot and fresh from the oven. Mix 3¾ cups chickpea flour with a pinch of salt, 2 tbsp olive oil, and 5½ cups water in a heavy saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon,
to prevent the mixture from sticking. Continue cooking for 20 minutes, or until the mixture starts to pull away from the edges. Season with salt and black pepper. Line a bread pan with plastic wrap. Pour the batter into the pan, and cover the surface with another layer of plastic wrap. Let sit until firm, at least 2 hours.
Heat a baking sheet in the oven at 400°F (200°C). Turn out the loaf onto a work surface and cut into thin slices. Remove the baking sheet from the oven, and add a splash of olive oil. Place the slices on the tray, and return to the oven.
Check after 4 minutes and, when the slices are golden brown, turn over to brown on the other side. Serve at once with freshly grated Parmesan, coarsely chopped
flat-leaf parsley, some lemon wedges, and a few grindings of black pepper.

Queijo na brasa Grilled salty cheese marinated with oregano

Queijo na brasa Grilled salty cheese marinated with oregano


Makes 12 skewers
2 small dried red chilies, crushed
1 tbsp dried oregano or marjoram, crumbled
3 tbsp olive oil
1juice. Set aside.
juice of ½ lemon
1lb (450g) queijo de coalho or haloumi cheese, cut into 12 rectangular blocks
freshly ground black pepper
In Bahia, street food can easily be redefined as beach little cafés and stalls where things are freshly made for lounging customers. Teenage boys and girls run around taking orders up and down the white sandy beach and ferrying them back to the cafés. There are also vendors who walk along selling their wares. It was from one of these that I  had these fantastic skewers, fresh from a charcoal-filled brazier. When the smoky grilled cheese is handed over, it comes with a wad of paper towels and a warning in Portuguese that it is very hot. I  take heed.
Crush the chilies with half the oregano, and mix with the olive oil and lemon
food. Thread the cheese onto 12 bamboo skewers, and soak the cheese, skewers and all, in cold water for an hour, to prevent the skewers burning on the grill and to remove excess salt from the cheese.
Heat a charcoal grill until the coals are white hot. (If you want to cook inside, heat a grill pan until very hot.) When your grill is ready, sprinkle the cheese skewers with the remaining oregano and a few grindings of black pepper. Grill the cheese for 2–3 minutes on each side until golden brown but still firm (not completely melted).
Arrange on a plate and drizzle with the chili-olive oil dressing. Serve at once. These skewers are delicious as a snack or could be eaten at the start of a summer barbecue before other dishes are served. They work very well for meat eaters and vegetarians alike because they are quite substantial and make a nice change from grilled corn on the cob.

Caldo de sururu Spicy mussel soup

Caldo  de sururu Spicy mussel soup

In the northeast of Brazil, in the state of Bahia, mussels are known as “sururu.” This is a great soup to serve at the beginning of a meal.
Serves 4–6
2 small fresh red-hot chilies, seeded and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves
6 fresh cilantro sprigs, leaves removed and stems finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
2 medium white onions, finely chopped
4½lb (2kg) mussels in their shells
6 ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2 bay leaves
1¼ cups canned coconut cream or coconut milk
juice of 2 limes plus extra limes, cut into wedges, for garnish
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

In Brazil it is served in small cups or shot glasses, and in many little cafés it can  be found served alongside a cold glass of beer. For a crunchy addition, chopped roasted peanuts can  be mixed through the soup.
Using a mortar and pestle, crush the chilies with the garlic and salt. Add the cilantro stems and work into a paste. Heat a large heavy pan over medium-
high heat. Cook the chili paste in the oil. Add the onion and cook for 3 minutes or until softened. Tap each mussel lightly on the work surface, and discard any that do not open, then add the mussels, tomato, and 2 cups water to the onion mixture. Cover and cook for 3 minutes. Add the bay leaves and continue cooking until the mussels open (discard any unopened mussels). Remove from the heat, and transfer the mussels and onion to a bowl. Let cool. Strain the cooking liquid through a sieve and set aside.
Prize open the mussels completely; remove the meat and discard the shells. Place two-thirds of the mussel meat in a food processor with the
cooled tomato and onion mixture. Purée with the coconut cream until smooth. Return the purée to the heavy pan with the strained mussel cooking liquid and another 2 cups water, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the reserved whole mussels to the pan, season well with salt and pepper, and add the lime juice. Taste the soup. It should be rich and creamy, with a good base of chili flavor. The lime juice cuts through the richness to ensure the soup has a perfect
balance of flavors, rather than being cloying. Serve hot in small cups or shot
glasses, with each serving garnished with a lime wedge.

Chaat Ratnesh Spicy seasoned potato in a cone

Chaat Ratnesh
Spicy seasoned potato in a cone
Serves 8
3 all-purpose medium potatoes
2 tbsp flaked coconut a little vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
8oz (225g) mixed mung bean sprouts and alfalfa sprouts, rinsed and drained
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies, seeded and finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely diced
2 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced juice of 1 lemon
30 fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
3 tbsp Date and Tamarind Chutney

salt and freshly ground black pepper
My friend Ratnesh introduced me to this quick and tasty Indian street food snack, or “chaat.” It is incredibly
good and, like much Indian
First make the cones to hold the filling; these will take the greatest amount of time, so it is better to have them all ready before you start cooking. You
will need some banana leaves. Cut them into 4in x 8in (10cm x 20cm) rectangles, allowing for 3 rectangles per person. Roll each rectangle into a tight cone. Secure the edges with a toothpick to hold in place.
Peel the potatoes and cut into ½in (1cm) chunks. Place in a pan of cold water with a little salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer
until the potato is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, but still firm. Drain in a sieve and let cool.
Place a dry heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add the coconut and toast, stirring often, until golden brown. Remove and set aside. Add a little oil
to the pan, and cook the onion for 3–4 minutes until golden brown. Increase the heat to high, add the bean sprouts, and cook quickly for another 2 minutes. Next add the chilies and red bell pepper. Cook quickly for another couple of minutes until the mixture is crisp-tender. Season well with salt and black pepper. Stir
in the lemon juice.
Combine the cooked mixture with the diced potato, scallions, and Date and Tamarind Chutney. Stir in the cilantro. Taste the mixture and adjust the
seasoning. The seeds and coconut should provide a good crunch. Using a small spoon, fill the cones and hand them to your guests with small spoons to eat
the filling. Eat at once so the filling does not soften the cone. You can refill the
banana-leaf cones as needed.
food when it is made well, healthy and easy. This particular chaat mixture is stuffed into small cones made from banana leaves.
Banana leaves are available in Asian food stores. With
a bit of notice, you could also ask your grocer to order them for you. If you can’t find fresh banana leaves, make small cones using parchment paper.